Už nuorodą dėkojame XxX
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I replaced the knock sensor, and took some pics during the process. Bear in mind I did not have access to any factory guides.
Prior to the job I had the codes read, and got a P0325 code if I remember correctly. I now finally knew why my engine had been reluctant on lower revs, probably during a couple of years at least. The Xedos has no check engine light. A faulty sensor will cause the engine to run in closed loop, with reduced timing advance to be certain no knocks occur.
No special tools are required; pliers, regular spanners, a set of screwdrivers, ¼, 3/8 and/or 1/2 inch sockets and a good torquewrench will do. Try to avoid dropping nuts and bolts; tends hard to refind. Also avoid entering threads with tools, specially the ones hard to reach. Aluminium alloy threads are easily destroyed if entered bad.
*Spray rust penetrant on the upper EGR tube nut.
* Take off the fuelcap to neutralize gastank vacuum. Replace fuelcap.
* Pop out the fuelpump relay, it is the green one under the fusebox cover, closest to the engine.
* Start the engine and run it till it stops, should take no more than 3 seconds or you pulled the wrong relay.
* Replace the relay and take out the battery.
* Drain the coolant through the radiator draining plug (Philips#2 screwdriver) on the passenger side, it is accessed through a one inch hole in the plastic cover. Take off the radcaps to aid draining. Don’t screw it too far out, it will drain through the screw. Use a big tray to avoid coolant all over the place. Can it and get rid of the coolant.
* Use som writeable tape and start labeling connectors and vacuum tubes needing to be disconnected. Be sure to label everything! I ended up with 26 in all, that did not include the most obvious like PCV tubes and plugcables. If the plugcables are not factory ones, be sure to mark them up. Mixing them might lead to engine damage once remounting. Some brackets has to be dismantled during the process, mainly on the rear side of the IM and the ones holding the plugwires.
* Remove the intake tubing and airfilter top, or CAI if fitted.
* Loosen the upper EGR tube nut. PITA warning! I spent an hour on this one; ended up taking out the canister for improved access (passenger side firewall, a black container with three tubes attached to it).
* Remove rear IM (intake manifold) support bolt, facing towards the firewall.
* Remove the 8 bolts and 4 nuts and gently rock the IM till it is loose. Make sure everything is disconnected before lifting it out and placed in a secure, clean position with inlets facing down.
* Dismantle the lower coolant tube, towards the thermostat housing on the tranny side of the engine. Beware a supporting bolt in the front head. Take off the small hoses on the housing, and put the tray under the tranny side, because some coolant will come out.
* Dismantle the two bolts holding the thermostat housing , towards the engine block. Big time PITA warning! They are placed behind two wiring harnesses on a bracket and a bracket holding the tranny shifter wire. The two bolts holding these brackets faces downwards, into the tranny. Refitting is even worse; I spent 3 hours and then my hands looked like I picked a fight with someone...
* Dismantle the upper coolant pipe running in the V, by removing a bolt towards the other pipe and a hose above the thermostat housing. Pull out the tube from the waterpump housing.
Then pull the lower pipe away from the waterpump housing, still attached to the thermostat housing.
* Then the knock sensor is available for dismantling.
* Fit the new sensor, access is abit cramped. Be sure to tighten it properly, it is a good idea to use Loctite threadlock to prevent it from coming loose.
* Clean out the EGR valve and the two ports placed in the IM inside the throttle body if needed.
* If needed this is the right time to replace the rear valvecover gasket. Even as preventive maintenance.
* Redirect the wrenches and start refitting everything. It is a good idea to replace the 0-ring seals on the coolant tubes inside the v. The IM gaskets also needs to be replaced. Tighten up the IM bolts with 25 Nm, sequence from center cylinders to each end on each cylinderbank.
* I replaced the thermostat as preventive maintenance. Then filled up with new coolant.
*When everything is back in place, allow the fuel pump to rebuild pressure, and check for leaks before startup. Then crank the engine, and it should start abit more reluctant than normal.
* You're done! Now take a drive and enjoy the regained torque sub 4500 rpm. Very noticeable.
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